Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of the active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance. Since the mid-2010s, the cosmetics industry has been gradually leaving the era of anti-ageing behind. Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a “well ageing”, “slow ageing” or “pro-ageing” approach.
Skinobs invites skincare creators and ingredient manufacturers to the Boost your test booth (#Q108), organized in collaboration with in-cosmetics Global and with the support of PHD Trials, QACS and Monasterium, in the heart of the Testing & Lab area.
The objective is to guide all visitors to the show in their evaluation process and to advise them regardless of the type of preclinical test in vitro or ex-vivo (stability, safety, container-content), or clinical (tolerance, efficacy, sensory analysis or consumer tests ...), and whatever the classic or innovative claims to be evaluated.
The sun protection objectivation subject represents a complex issue between in silico, in vitro, in vivo and hybrid methods at least as important as the challenge of the formulation itself. Anne Charpentier explains different methods with their advantages and disadvantages.
First, it is interesting to consider what criteria mainly influence the performance of UV protection products: composition, repartition, photostability, absorbance and distribution of the inorganic and organic filters, galenic (spray, compact powder, oil, cream…), properties to form a stable, homogeneous, and resistant film, pleasant to apply.
Traditional methods of consumer tests have been applied to the testing of personal care products since many years. Difference and descriptive tests on odours, perfumes, textures, cosmetics tolerance, or efficacy generate subjective information that is very useful to the formulators, R&D managers, marketing, and regulatory affairs team. Untrained panels with experienced uses of personal care are known to be capable of detecting differences of various skin, hair, or nail products attributes under controlled laboratory conditions or in a home use situation after a single use or a treatment.
The Cosmetotest symposium, dedicated to preclinical and clinical tests in the dermocosmetics industry, will be held on May 24-25, 2022, at ENS-Lyon. It is organized by SKINOBS and Cosmet-in Lyon in partnership with the SFI2C and the DIIP, and the support of the AURA-Region and CosmeBooste Project. It is intended for cosmeticians from France and elsewhere. Anne Charpentier, founder of SKINOBS, explains the genesis of this symposium and highlights the news of this still little-known, yet dynamic and agile sector of activity, which is a key marker of the cosmetics industry.
The study of emotions has won over cosmetics for a few years now with first the evaluation of well-being by quality-of-life questionnaires and self-evaluations of consumer tests. Since the 2010s, with the contribution of neuroscience and new technologies, it has been a question of scientifically and dynamically evaluating the psychic and physiological influence of emotions associated with the application of a cosmetic product and consequently the actions that result from it.
Emotions, complex physical and instinctive phenomena, cause unconscious bodily signals that can be instantly and objectively measured.
Organised by Cosmet’In Lyon and Skinobs, the Cosmetotest symposium will be held on 27 and 28 of January 2022, in Lyon, France.
The symposium will provide cosmeticians with the possibility to attend academic lectures, to interact with other participants. The event will also be an opportunity to meet test partners, exhibitors, CROs or instrumentation manufacturers, and to participate in demonstrations of devices carried out by exhibitors
In-vivo objectification of the firmness and tonicity of the skin.
Personal care products offering an efficacy on the skin biomechanical properties are often linked to anti-aging claim category. These products are associated to various functionalities such as, lifting, firming, remodeling, plumping, resculpting, restructuring or tonic. The firmness and the tonicity are skin attribute that are constantly impacted by the exposome (concept developed by Dr. Jean Krutman in 2016) and all the non-genetic factors that influence skin ageing.
Rebalance, activate, protect… the microbiota: what claims can be used for a cosmetic product and how can they be objectified? Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs, reviews the complexity of the skin microbiota, the claims that can be linked to it and their objectification by the evaluation of the activity of cosmetics through the different methods available.
In 5 years, Skinobs has become the reference platforms for the sourcing of preclinical and clinical tests in cosmetics: a glance at the key claims.
Since February 2016, Skinobs facilitates the activity of cosmeticians by allowing them to identify and contact the most qualified laboratories, quickly and free of charge, to carry out their preclinical and clinical tests, thanks to 2 friendly platforms, with menu and filters.
The sourcing platform for clinical and preclinical tests - the second part having been launched in June 2020 - which also offers a news feed, is celebrating its fifth anniversary.
In the last few months there has been a strong desire for cosmetic products that should not only care for the skin, but also increase well-being. Anne Charpentier explains how the demands have changed in 2020 and how their effects on well-being can be measured.
Skin imperfections classically cover a wide range of visible alterations of the skin, caused by a variety of causes. And today, the wearing of the mask, which sometimes takes several hours a day, is becoming a new parameter to be taken into account in their evaluation. Classifying the claims related to skin imperfections in this context is therefore anything but simple! Anne Charpentier, Founder and CEO of Skinobs, explains.
The skin plays multiple roles of protection, perception, immunity, regulation or blood and lymphatic reservoir for the whole body. Thanks to several mechanical, chemical or biological (sebum, biofilm …) reactions, the skin ensures its integrity according to the various endogenous or exogenous environmental variations. Today, the increase in the fragile phenomena of skin is a major issue in the development of the dermocosmetics.
Skinobs, the search platform dedicated to tests providers and relevant methods to support cosmetic active ingredients or finished products claims, has extracted the main trends related to cosmetic claims from the queries that are carried out on its databases.
Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance.
The implementation of the efficacy studies refers to the regulation of each world zone and sometimes each country. In Europe, the references are the European Regulation for cosmetics claims (EC No.655/2013 - Art.20-Art.22) as well as Regulations No.1223/2009 and its provisions on the Product Information File (PIF). Focus on the benefits of clinical scores, with Anne Charpentier, from Skinobs.