After the first validations of the product toxicology, preservation (challenge test), stability comes the necessity to ensure the consumers safety. To evaluate the safety of cosmetics the first actor will be the toxicologist who will quantitatively and qualitatively review the product formula. In a second step, testing laboratories will process to the safety assessment via in silico analysis, on chemicals, cells or on skin models. Once the product innocuity is fully validated, tolerance studies can start on human beings. In this article we will present the several ways, the most used to evaluate the safety and the tolerance of cosmetics to make them safe for the consumers, wherever there are used in the world.
Eco-responsibility is one of the major expectations of today’s consumers. Even though geopolitical conditions and their current inherent crises have a general impact on global consumption and economies, attention to respect for the environment has never been more important. The observation is known and although warnings about climate changes began to resonate in the 70s, manufacturers in the cosmetics value chain have relatively recently begun to integrate this new vision into the development of their activities.
Just as ChatGPT answers the question of container-content interaction in cosmetics, we could talk about the interaction of the cosmetic product and its packaging with the consumer. This would lead us into considerations related to the consumer's experience with the cosmetic product's packaging. We would have to consider how the container, its shape, size or ease of use would influence the consumer experience. But far from the territories of marketing and consumer feelings, what interests us here is the way in which cosmetic brands can analyze the interaction phenomena of the formula with its container, whether it is a bottle, tube, spray, bottle or tube.
The stress induced by the pollution can increase the formation of glycated products at the several layers of the skin. It produces the Advanced Glycation End Products (AGE). These AGE affects the quality of the extracellular matrix by destroying the collagen. The chronic stress induced by external pollutants alters the integrity of the skin barrier and generate various skin disorders: sensitivity, pigmentation, dermatitis, etc.
L'un des effets de la pollution atmosphérique sur la peau - combinée à l'ozone, aux rayons UV et à la lumière bleue - est la génération de radicaux libres et de réactions inflammatoires consécutives à long terme. Le stress oxydatif provoque généralement une diminution de la protection antioxydante naturelle et réduit finalement les performances de la barrière cutanée, entraînant des dommages cutanés tels que le vieillissement, les taches et la sensibilité, en raison de multiples troubles dans la couche cornée, l'épiderme et le derme (dommages à l'ADN, carbonylation des protéines, altération enzymatique, médiateurs de l'inflammation, oxydation, etc.)
During the first half of 2022, Skinobs conducted an international study on the clinical testing market for the beauty industry and is publishing a summary of this study. The study concerns the development of skin, hair, scalp and nail care products. It deals with efficacy, safety and tolerance measurements, consumer testing and sensory analysis. The summary of the study is available online.
Anne Charpentier, founder of Skinobs, a company that publishes technical platforms dedicated to in vitro and ex-vivo tests, sheds light on the clinical evaluation of signs of aging correlated to hormonal changes, and to menopause in particular.
Skinobs invites cosmeticians to attend the free webinar dedicated to the presentation of the survey carried out on the global market for clinical testing in cosmetics: on Thursday, June 16., 2022 from 3:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. (Paris time).
Anne Charpentier of Skinobs explores the evolution of active ingredient testing in the personal care sector, and takes a close look at current trends
For many years now, every cosmetic product launched on markets around the world has been validated for its safety and efficacy in accordance with the cosmetic regulations of each country. Product performance is changing along with consumer expectations, shopping habits, beauty routines and lifestyles.
Why do cosmetic products for sensitive skin need to be tested in vivo? What regulatory requirements must be met? How to recruit volunteers? What types of tests should be performed? During the Cosmetotest symposium, organized on May 24 and 25 by Skinobs and Cosmet'in Lyon, Anne Sirvent, from Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care, gave a complete overview of the issue.
On Thursday, May 12, 2022, at 3:00 p.m. PT, Skinobs invites cosmeticians to attend a free Focus-Live webinar dedicated to skin hydration assessment.
Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of the active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance. Since the mid-2010s, the cosmetics industry has been gradually leaving the era of anti-ageing behind. Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a “well ageing”, “slow ageing” or “pro-ageing” approach.
Skinobs invites skincare creators and ingredient manufacturers to the Boost your test booth (#Q108), organized in collaboration with in-cosmetics Global and with the support of PHD Trials, QACS and Monasterium, in the heart of the Testing & Lab area.
The objective is to guide all visitors to the show in their evaluation process and to advise them regardless of the type of preclinical test in vitro or ex-vivo (stability, safety, container-content), or clinical (tolerance, efficacy, sensory analysis or consumer tests ...), and whatever the classic or innovative claims to be evaluated.
The sun protection objectivation subject represents a complex issue between in silico, in vitro, in vivo and hybrid methods at least as important as the challenge of the formulation itself. Anne Charpentier explains different methods with their advantages and disadvantages.
First, it is interesting to consider what criteria mainly influence the performance of UV protection products: composition, repartition, photostability, absorbance and distribution of the inorganic and organic filters, galenic (spray, compact powder, oil, cream…), properties to form a stable, homogeneous, and resistant film, pleasant to apply.
Skinobs will meet skincare creators and ingredient manufacturers at the Boost your test booth (#Q108), organized in collaboration with in-cosmetics Global and with the support of PHD Trials, QACS and Monasterium, in the heart of the Testing & Lab area.
Traditional methods of consumer tests have been applied to the testing of personal care products since many years. Difference and descriptive tests on odours, perfumes, textures, cosmetics tolerance, or efficacy generate subjective information that is very useful to the formulators, R&D managers, marketing, and regulatory affairs team. Untrained panels with experienced uses of personal care are known to be capable of detecting differences of various skin, hair, or nail products attributes under controlled laboratory conditions or in a home use situation after a single use or a treatment.
Le symposium Cosmetotest, dédié aux tests précliniques et cliniques de l’industrie dermocosmétique, se tiendra les 24 et 25 mai 2022, à l’ENS-Lyon. Organisé par Cosmet’iIn Lyon et SKINOBS, en partenariat avec la SFI2C et la DIIP et avec le soutien de la région AURA et du projet CosmeBooste, il s’adresse aux cosméticiens de France et du monde entier. Anne Charpentier, fondatrice de SKINOBS, explique la genèse de cet évènement et apporte un éclairage sur l’actualité de ce secteur d’activité encore méconnu, mais pourtant dynamique et agile. Un marqueur clé de l’industrie cosmétique.
The Cosmetotest symposium, dedicated to preclinical and clinical testing in the dermocosmetic industry, will be held on May 24 and 25, 2022, at ENS-Lyon. Organized by Cosmet'iIn Lyon and SKINOBS, in partnership with SFI2C and DIIP and with the support of the AURA region and the CosmeBooste project, it is aimed at cosmeticians from France and around the world. Anne Charpentier, founder of SKINOBS, explains the genesis of this event and sheds light on the current state of this sector of activity sector of activity, which is still unknown, yet dynamic and agile. A key marker of the cosmetics industry.
L’étude des émotions séduit depuis quelques années les cosmétiques avec d’abord l’évaluation du bien-être par des questionnaires de qualité de vie et des auto-évaluations de tests consommateurs. Depuis les années 2010, avec l’apport des neurosciences et des nouvelles technologies, il s’agit d’évaluer scientifiquement et de manière dynamique l’influence psychique et physiologique des émotions associées à l’application d’un produit cosmétique et par conséquent les actions qui en résultent.
Les émotions, phénomènes physiques et instinctifs complexes, provoquent des signaux corporels inconscients qui peuvent être mesurés instantanément et objectivement.
Organised by Cosmet’In Lyon and Skinobs, the Cosmetotest symposium will be held on 27 and 28 of January 2022, in Lyon, France.
The symposium will provide cosmeticians with the possibility to attend academic lectures, to interact with other participants. The event will also be an opportunity to meet test partners, exhibitors, CROs or instrumentation manufacturers, and to participate in demonstrations of devices carried out by exhibitors
Objectivation in-vivo de la fermeté et de la tonicité de la peau
Les produits de soins offrant une efficacité sur les propriétés biomécaniques de la peau sont souvent liés à la catégorie des allégations anti-âge. Ces produits sont associés à diverses fonctionnalités telles que, liftant, raffermissement, remodelant, repulpant, resculptant, restructurant ou tonique. La fermeté et la tonicité sont des composantes cutanées qui sont constamment impactés par l'exposome (concept développé par le Dr Jean Krutman en 2016) et tous les facteurs non génétiques qui influencent le vieillissement cutané.
Various in vivo and in vitro objectivation methods are available today to evaluate the performance of skin care products and ingredients on the biomechanical properties of the skin. Overview of the solutions listed by Skinobs.
Rééquilibrer, activer, protéger… le microbiote : quelles allégations peuvent-elles être utilisées pour un produit cosmétique et comment les objectiver ? Anne Charpentier, CEO de Skinobs, fait le point sur la complexité du microbiote cutanée, les allégations qui peuvent y être liées et leur objectivation par l’évaluation de l’activité des cosmétiques au travers des différentes méthodes disponibles.
Rebalance, activate, protect... the microbiota: what claims can be used for a cosmetic product and how can they be objectified? cosmetic product and how to objectify them? Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs, reviews the complexity of the microbiota, the claims that can be linked to it and their objectification through the evaluation of the activity of cosmetics through the different methods available.
The "device" expert filter completes the advanced search functionalities of Skinobs' Clinical Testing platform dedicated to human testing, tolerance testing, biometrological testing, consumer testing or sensory analysis. This new filter is in addition to the existing filters that allow cosmeticians and clinical evaluators to search for test methods or laboratories worldwide.
En 5 ans, Skinobs est devenu la plateforme de référence pour le référencement en tests précliniques et cliniques en cosmétique : un coup d’œil sur les revendications clés.
Depuis février 2016, Skinobs facilite l’activité des cosméticiens en leur permettant d’identifier et de contacter les laboratoires les plus qualifiés, rapidement et gratuitement, pour réaliser leurs tests précliniques et cliniques, grâce à 2 plateformes conviviales, avec menu et filtres.
Un an après son lancement, plus de 5 000 utilisateurs venus de 80 pays ont consulté plus de 57 000 pages sur les deux plateformes cliniques et précliniques. La plateforme Préclinique représente, avec plus de 1 000 utilisateurs, 42 % des consultations.
La plateforme de sourcing de tests cliniques et précliniques - second volet lancé en juin 2020 - qui propose également un fil d'actualité, fête ses cinq ans.
Au cours des derniers mois, il y a eu un fort désir de produits cosmétiques qui devraient non seulement prendre soin de la peau, mais aussi augmenter le bien-être. Anne Charpentier explique comment les demandes ont changé en 2020 et comment leurs effets sur le bien-être peuvent être mesurés.
Les imperfections cutanées recouvrent classiquement un vaste ensemble d’altérations visibles de la peau, engendrées par une variété de causes. Et aujourd’hui, le port du masque, qui se compte parfois en plusieurs heures par jour, devient un nouveau paramètre à prendre en considération dans leur évaluation. Classifier les allégations en lien avec les imperfections cutanées dans ce contexte est donc tout sauf simple ! L’éclairage d’Anne Charpentier, Fondatrice et CEO de Skinobs.
La peau joue de multiples rôles de protection, de perception, d’immunité, de régulation ou de réservoir sanguin et lymphatique pour tout le corps. Grâce à plusieurs réactions mécaniques, chimiques ou biologiques (sébum, biofilm...), la peau assure son intégrité selon les différentes variations environnementales endogènes ou exogènes. Aujourd’hui, l’augmentation des phénomènes fragiles de la peau est un enjeu majeur dans le développement des dermocosmétiques.
Skinobs' platforms help cosmeticians, R&D managers, formulators, marketers or regulatory affairs managers to find, worldwide, recognized testing providers and relevant methods to support the claims of actives or finished products.
Skinobs, la plateforme de recherche de laboratoires, de tests et de méthodes pour soutenir les revendications des actifs ou de produits cosmétiques, a extrait des recherches effectuées sur ses bases de données les principales tendances en matière de revendications cosmétiques.
Skin imperfections classically cover a wide range of visible alterations of the skin, caused by a variety of causes. And today, the wearing of a mask, which sometimes takes several hours a day, is becoming a new parameter to be taken into consideration in their evaluation. Classifying the claims related to skin imperfections in this context is therefore anything but simple! Anne Charpentier, Founder and CEO of Skinobs, explains.
Skinobs.com a lancé une plateforme collaborative gratuite dédiée aux services de tests précliniques. Cet outil permet aux scientifiques en cosmétique d’identifier les méthodes d’essai pertinentes dont ils ont besoin pour le travail préclinique, de l’analyse générale et de l’appui aux réclamations, aux fournitures de test.
In response to the requests from cosmeticians, you can now connect for free to the new platform dedicated to preclinical testing of dermocosmetic ingredients, actives and finished products. Like the one dedicated to clinical testing, this unique tool allows the testing community around the world, through reserved access, to identify methods and laboratories and validate all the characteristics necessary for the product developments.
The principle of Skinobs is to allow cosmeticians to identify relevant methods to support their claims for their active ingredients, finished products or medical devices… After launching four years ago the first technological platform dedicated to clinical test methods and laboratories, Skinobs is now launching a new one dedicated to preclinical tests.
Après avoir lancé il y a quatre ans la première plateforme technologique dédiée aux méthodes et laboratoires de tests cliniques, Skinobs.com élargit son offre avec une nouvelle plateforme dédiée aux tests précliniques.
The new “preclinical” platform is, like the 1st one, a tool accessible free of charge and without business commission. In 2 clicks, each user can choose by:
• Test category: Analytical tests, Content-contenair interaction, Ecotoxicity and Biodegradability tests, Safety tests, UV tests, efficacy tests…
• Claim: anti-ageing, anti-pollution…
• Test support: cell cultures, 3D skin models… the various tests corresponding to his objectivation project and directly contact each test provider. A keyword search also simplifies the search.