Nowadays, the increase of life expectancy is correlated to a higher demand of anti-ageing skin care. The appearance of ageing skin is highlighted by skin roughness, wrinkling, pigmentation change, loss of elasticity and decreased firmness. Wrinkles are the results of a combined impact of internal and external factors on skin ageing, such as diet, smoking, sleeping disorders, photo-ageing, chronic and oxidative stress. A highly polluted environment can also be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin ageing process.These multifactorial causes could accelerate the natural decline of skin structure and functions and are growing evidence that environmental factors associated with lifestyle and comorbidities deserve greater attention from dermatologists and may require new approaches in the management of skin ageing. This environment encourages the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs.
Considering consumers needs the new generation of cosmetics has been developed offering a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, anti-oxidant and anti-ageing concerns, with beneficial results demonstrated by in-vitro (culture model with primary human skin cells), – ex-vivo studies with full-thickness human skin and in-vivo clinical trials.
In particular, the clinical objectivation of similar multifunctional cosmetic formulas entails a combination of measures. Indeed, to the dedicated wrinkle-depth measure by profilometry (Primos® 3D small and large field capture), it is common to associate skin hydration (Corneometer®), skin color and gloss (CM-700D, Konica-Minolta), skin firmness and skin elasticity (Cutometer®), transepidermal water loss (Tewameter®), skin density (ultrasound Aloka alfa6 pro-sound, Hitachi), skin microrelief (Visioscan®)…
Image analysis performed with dedicated softwares on highest resolution facial photographs taken by Visioface®RD or Visia® Skin Analysis System, as well as clinical evaluations performed by dermatologists and expert technicians are a complementary analysis methods.
The beneficial anti-ageing effects of probiotics are now widely reported. A recent study has proved their significant anti-ageing effect by increasing the skin water content, the skin elasticity, the skin gloss and decreasing transepidermal water loss as well as the wrinkle depth. The analysis on skin microbiome performed by PCR technology could be a valid support for objectifying the action of probiotics.
All the described methods could also be used for nutraceuticals presenting new nutritional strategies for anti-ageing care.